Reproduction /oestrus: has shifted. Click on "animal reproduction" left ..or use: http://www.2farm.co.nz/animal_reproduction.htm   
Our animals:

Their hoof design actually enables them to "walk on their toes". It gives their legs the extra length, and therefore the extra speed.
Their ruminant digestion allowed them to graze out in the open, where they could easily be seen by predators.
Under cover, or shade, and out of danger they could relax, and chew their cud.
Their young can manage to stand, and walk, very soon after they're born.
These animals depend on smell for safety, and smell is necessary for their reproduction. They may recognize their young firstly by smell, but as mother and
offspring are familiar with each other, they recognize each other by sight.
In a group there are a few hierarchy battles.
They fight with their heads. This could be anything from a bunt, to a full blown battle with antlers as in stags fighting for dominance.
Learning about your animals?:
Sheep, cattle, deer and goats are all gregarious, meaning they naturally live together in flocks or herds. In the wild, being in a group meant protection.
These animals were "beasts of prey" and, if caught, they would be eaten. To help these animals survive, they have a greater field of vision than humans.
As they graze they are aware of movements to the side of them. As you study them, they'll be studying you. As a group they would have grazed out in the open, and then retreated to safety to "chew their cud". Cows move away from a herd if ill, or about to calve. 
For the 1st time farmer:
The easiest and most pleasant way to learn about your animals is by feeding them. (Letting them into a fresh paddock, or feeding hay.) They  begin to associate you, and your noises  with  pleasure. This is a great opportunity to study your stock. 
Animals appreciate routine:
Your animals may start assembling at the gate as soon as they hear you approaching, and you'll soon learn to have the gates prepared before you open the paddock they're in.
Some cows may entertain you by kicking up of their heels once they get to a generous fresh paddock.
If cattle are really hungry, they'll call out.
                 
The boss animal: That's you: 
Cattle certainly respond best to a farmer who is confident and consistent.
Unstressed animals grow faster. Some animals appreciate a bit of petting.
Different breeds of animals have very different temperaments. Remember that these animals can
remember unpleasant experiences for quite a long time.
Studying their behaviour is important, and this is especially so when mating cattle.
The mounting of each other when cows are on heat is natures way of attracting the attention of a
nearby bull.
Hopefully  NOT your neighbours bull. 

Animals love eating:
Goats sheep and cattle can be crafty, and downright determined about getting to some tasty pasture.
 Many a cattle farmer has suddenly learnt that those gate hooks can be flipped upwards by a cows tongue. (Jerseys have a reputation for doing just that.)
I have heard of sheep who can open gates. Perhaps there are advantages in making sure your gate catches are animal proof.
Some animals will endure the "kick" of a gentle electric fence to get to that lush grass, while others have a great respect for fences. 
Animals and odours:
Pheremones, (a sexual attractant) play a huge role in the reproduction of cattle, sheep, goats, and deer. A newly calved animal recognises her calf by smell at first, until she recognizes it visually. Smell, possibly warns them not to eat certain foods.
The odour of cattle blood can start some very strange behaviour. Cattle will behave in a very agitated and excited way. They will moo a lot. It is important to thoroughly remove any blood from treatment areas. We may not notice the blood, but your animals may.
Noises: These animals will be comfortable with every day noises, but sudden loud noises may scare your animals.

Cattle Breeds website: http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/cattle/
A "COW" website where people have sent in photos of their cows ..from all over the world. http://www.crazyforcows.com/   
click “Guest Cows”

Bulls:  Their Behaviour:

Are they dangerous? They do have a reputation for being dangerous. Some can be, so treat all bulls as dangerous. Stay well away from fighting bulls. There is suggestions that hand raised bulls have lost their fear of people, and they can be unpredictable. Perhaps not all bulls are dangerous. BUT: Keep your eye on them when you are working with them. Take a stick, or similar with you (for your protection) when working with them. A well aimed, and your heftiest thwack across his nose works in self defence. I am told that if you spread your arms out to a charging bull you appear much larger and he will stop. Two bulls working together with a herd will compete with each other. Young bulls that have had very little contact with cows may not know how to mate.

Bulls can and will jump fences.
It could  be your neighbours on heat cow that has enticed him over the boundary fence.
Barbed wire as the top wire on a fence could certainly do some damage to his family jewels!!! Yes. bulls  can  be a challenge, especially if your neighbours also farm cattle.
Bulls can dig large unsightly holes in your paddocks.
If keeping a bull, remember cattle are gregarious, he will appreciate some company in his paddock.
You may be able to lease a bull.
Sheep:
 Sheep appreciate the company of other sheep.
Even although the flock may be spread out over a large paddock, they have the reassurance that flock members are nearby.
There is a basic social/ dominant sheep ranking within the flock. Sheep will move towards another sheep willingly.
They are intelligent, and they can learn tricks. But basically the lamb learns from its mother.
Sheep will learn from flock mates. The occasional sheep has learned how to open a gate.

Sheep Breeds of New Zealand website:- http://www.nzsheep.co.nz/   ~Click on breeds.

Goats:             
 Goats have very little fatty padding under their skin, so they need shelter  from the cold and wet.
Tethered goats need a hut, or similar.
With their love of heights, you may find them balancing on the top of an A frame, or sleeping,
or standing on the top of a flat roof. (The hut needs to be sturdy)
They may also climb on the seat of your bike, or on the roof of your car.
A tethered goat needs his hooves trimmed frequently, and they need plenty of fresh water to drink. The water container should be secured
so it cant be tipped over.
Goats have strong hind legs, and they'll use them to stretch up the trunk of a tree to nibble on some tasty leaves. Their appetite can get them into
trouble, so be sure to keep them away from poisonous plants.. (rhododendron, yew, ect)
Any wire fences will be put to the test with these animals. Smaller goats may be able to scramble in between the wires. Goats have been known to dig
under a fence.
If you plan to rotationally graze these animals, or use them to eat down your weeds, you will
find that the electric fence is a handy tool.
They climb, and they are very sure footed:
They can walk up those fence stays, and they'll jump into a neighbouring paddock!!! They'll do this of course with their mates looking on, so you won't
find just the one goat in the next paddock.
There is a social ranking in goat groups. The dominant animals are usually the older females. When farming these rascals perhaps a sense of humour is needed. 
Helpful website about goats: http://www.caprine.co.nz
Goat breeds website: http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/goats/

Deer:

Think very very carefully before "going into" deer farming. It is recommended that you  work with, and learn from existing deer farmers prior to going to the  expense of setting up for a deer farm. Deer can be flighty. Their response times are rapid. They are extremely good jumpers. They can also cause injuries to people, especially if they rear up on their back feet and may box out with their sharp front hooves.  It is said if you can farm cattle, you'll be able to adapt to farming deer. Deer can sense a handlers lack of confidence, but with practice handling skills  will improve. Deer can get stressed, and this can lead to health problems for the animal. When working with deer, just take it calmly, Don't rush them. Keep work to a minimum on windy and very hot days. They handle the best in mornings rather than the afternoon. They move best along tracks they are familiar with. Deer prefer to run up a hill if startled.

Have adequate water troughs...
Deer do become stressed. When deer get stressed they can  rapidly dehydrate.
Your deer handling areas need water troughs also. 
Your fences and gates will need to be 2 metres high.
Netting fences have advantages as they prevent fawns from getting through.
Dogs cannot get through netting fences.
Be aware that bucks or stags will fight.
A roof over your treatment areas is a good idea. Ventilation is also very important in treatment areas.
If planning to transport deer, remember to group them (the young group, your female group, and the males) they need to be transported in their
separate groups.
Don't forget your TB card. Don't transport stags during the rut.
Deer travel better in darkened and well ventilated crates. There is a restriction on antler length so check before transporting them.

Above: RED DEER in a towed "deer transporter".. Designed to move deer from farm to farm.
Animals and the weather:
All animals need shelter: This means shelter from the sun as well as cold rain and winds, hail and sleet. On wet windy days you may notice that cattle in an exposed paddock will have clumped together, their backs facing the direction of the weather.
Very young calves may do the same. And keep walking in that direction. If you discover a calf is missing after a storm, you may find it sleeping in a cozy place down wind from the storm.
Sheep and deer will seek out the more sheltered places in the paddock when the weather is really bad. Remember that in cold weather your animals need feed, as it is their ruminant digestion that provides warmth for their bodies.
The dog and your animals:
Caution: If your animals are not used to a dog:
Particularly deer: Keep any dogs well away from them, regardless of how well trained the dog is.
Goats and Sheep who are not used to a dog can be totally confused with a noisy dog running around in their flock.
A horned goat can attack a dog.
Cattle who are not familiar with dogs, may attempt to study them, and smell them. They can kick a dog. Furthermore they may become nervous. This could lead to a stampede.
At calving time, even if your cattle are used to a dog, a newly calved cow may head butt the dog to protect her calf.
A herd, or flock that responds well to a dog, and a well trained dog, can save the farmer a lot of time.
Huntaways: (NZ) Are the popular farm barking dogs that move animals from behind.
Heading dogs: (NZ)Are used to move sheep in a particular direction.
Moving cattle too quickly:
If your cattle are moving along quickly, some with their heads in the air: You are moving them too quickly.
Slow down. Cattle are very fussy as to where they place their feet.
Being unable to choose where their feet go, because their heads are in the air, could lead to hoof injuries, or sticks or stones wedged in between the cleft of their hooves. This can lead to lameness.  

Animal Separation Stress/Panic:
A herd, flock animal that has somehow been separated from a group can get
really stressed or panicky. The easiest way to deal with this is by moving several herd/ flock mates in with him/ her.
When they have calmed down then, as a group move them back to their flock/herd.

Treatment areas, Handling areas, and Stock Yards:
I'm referring to man made structures. The areas on you farm that possibly your animals infrequently visit. Before using these unfamiliar areas there is
merit in letting your animals wander through them at their leisure. They will be reassured when you work with them, that there is a way out.
This will  help reduce some of the stress.
The design of the structures is important.
Consider your floors:-Some surfaces, when covered in urine and dung can get slippery.
The layout of races/lanes design should entice animals to  "flow" through your yards.
There are advantages in having solid walls so animals cannot see what is "going on" in the next yard.
The height of the walls is important. Deer, and goats are great at jumping.. Sheep and cattle come a close second. If cattle feel desperate enough to escape,
they may try jumping. They may succeed, but sometimes they  end up straddled across the fence looking like a see saw.
The width of your yards is important. Sheep and goats may suddenly hesitate, and then do a U turn in yards that are wide, and really designed for cattle.
Some animals have horns and antlers, so there should not be areas where these can get caught up. Deer are better in treatment areas that are covered.
Helpful websites about yard designs:
http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/572
http:www.acc.org.nz/injury-prevention/ruralsafe/animals/yard-design/  

Lifting/maneuvering sheep, and calves:
Don't grab them by their skin or fleece. It hurts. With sheep you can grip by putting your arms around their upper body, then lift. At the same time you bring your knee up to their "bottom", to give the sheep an additional lift.
With calves, goats lambs lift them up from underneath, but squat to do this, so you are placing the weight on your thighs, NOT your back.
If transferring calves, say, on to a trailer, remember that where the head goes the rest of the body will follow.
Lift the front legs up on to the trailer, and with a gentle push, the rest of its body follows, so no lifting is involved.
Moving stock around your farm:
Prepare all gates in advance.
It helps when moving stock they can see clearly where they are going.
Move your stock from behind. They may not be able to see you, but the continual noise of your bike, tractor, a stone rattled in a can, your voice, or occasional barking lets them know where you are.
If they figure they are about to be let into some tasty pasture they may suddenly start running.
Moving yarded cattle:
Cattle have a flight zone which varies according to the breed, and the tameness or wildness of the animal.
If you move towards the flight zone, the animal will move away.
Use this behaviour: To move the animal forward: position yourself at the animals side, somewhere between it's stomach and it's "butt". If you stand between it's shoulders and its head the animal will stop.
Your pet cows, house cows, and many dairy cows will have lost this flight zone. To get them to move forward, just place your hand on their back, just near their tail end. You could also use a verbal command.
Moving sheep through the yards:
This is where the old pet lamb comes in handy. Your pet lamb, now an adult sheep can be the leader. Food works well as an enticement.  
           ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Introduction
Small Farm Essentials  |	All About Pastures
Fertiliser  |	Seasonal Management
Behaviour: Cattle, Deer, Goats  |	Birth: Dystocia and Helping
Newborns & Calf Rearing  |	Metabolic Problems
Common Diseases: Treatment & Prevention
Preventable Diseases (in cattle, sheep, goats, and deer)

email: elise@2farm.co.nz 
www.2farm.co.nz

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