Farming: pastures: grasses, grazing, growth, renovation, hay, weeds.

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Pastures: grasses, growth, renovation, hay, weeds

Farming
Introduction
Essentials
Pastures
Animal Reproduction
Fertiliser
Seasonal Management
Animal Behaviour
Birth
Newborns
Metabolic Problems
Common Diseases
Preventable Diseases
Photographs of Farming
Got a Question?

 

Farming

   If  you can grow pasture well:

Pasture Is the cheapest way to feed for your stock. It involves the least work.
Pasture
has all the nutrients for your stock:  Protein, sugars, fats, fibre, minerals & water. 

Pasture requires sunlight, moisture, soil, and soil nutrients in order to grow.
Factors influencing pasture growth:
Sunlight hours & seasons:
The length of daylight &  season greatly influence pasture growth.
Pasture, like other green plants, needs sunlight for photosynthesis.
Pasture plants also need some leaf remaining after grazing to enable photosynthesis to occur. 
The sunlight provides warmth, especially warming soil temperatures. Some pasture plants will not grow
when soil temperatures are too cold. 
You may notice grass growth is non existent or limited under a row (a shelter belt) of thick trees.
This area is usually fertile as animals will use it as a camp site. The "denuding" is because of limited sunshine.
Furthermore the tree roots compete for any moisture available. Weeds and nuisance grass often flourish between your good
pasture and the area of "no growth".
Location:
Pasture on the flat usually receives maximum sunlight.
Some hilly areas may face the sun. Others "loose the sun early", or just receive limited sun. Hilly areas are further
challenged by limited fertility. You may notice lush grass growing at the bottom of the hill.
This area receives the "run off" of fertilizer, and topsoil brought down in the rain.
Re-grassing, and fertilizing hilly areas are a further challenge. There are some hills that are far too steep for vehicles. "High country
farmers" use aerial means of applying fertilizer.
(Moisture: see drought, Fertilizer: see soils)  
Photosynthesis: 
Put simply : Photosynthesis converts sunlight into energy.
Chlorophyll (a green pigment) gives the leaves their green colouring. It is involved with photosynthesis.
IMost photosynthesis takes place in the leaves.
 Structure of a Grass Plant:
 
Below: A labelled photo of a young grass plant.
 
                                                                            
The basic structure of a grass plant is similar in all  grasses.
 
The roots:  
 
Water and dissolved mineral nutrients in soil, enter the plant by the roots.
 
The roots can act as storage.
 The roots firmly anchor the plant in the ground.

 
In newly planted grass; the roots go deeply into the soil before the green of
the new  plant is observed.
 
The number of tillers above the ground is closely related to the amount of root.
 Root growth is influenced by the carbohydrates supplied by the leaves.
So when conditions are ideal for rapid leaf growth, root growth is usually rapid.
 Most rapid root growth does occur in winter and in spring, as long as conditions
are favourable.

 The Crown (The main growth point):
This area manufactures shoots, (tillers) and eventually seeds.
Clever isn’t it.  
It is the main growth point at the beginning of the season. (The vegetative stage)
D
uring stem growth this growth point is pushed up.
It can eventually develop into a seed head.
It also acts as a storage organ for carbohydrates surplus.
 
Secondary growth points:
These are at each node (the swollen part) and at the base of each leaf.
These growth points are responsible for growth in the leaf, sheath and also stem
growth.
Auxiliary buds in tillers/shoots.(not included in sketch) are undeveloped growth
points. They will produce shoots of their own.

 
The Leaves:
Photosynthesis takes place in the leaves.
Each new leave emerges from the sheath of older leaves, and it grows from
the base of the leaf. (The oldest part of the leaf is the top of the leaf.) 
The bottom bit of the leaf forms a sheath which  protects young shoots.
(see diagram
just above where "tiller or shoot" is printed) Sunlight and warm
temperatures increase the emergence of new leaves.
Ligule:
A thin membrane found at the bottom of the leaf blade and sheath.
Most grasses have ligules. Ligules are different in each grass species, so
they can be used to identify the type of grass when there is no seed head.

 
The Flower /seed head:
The forming of a flower may begin in early spring (in ryegrasses).
Prior to "elongation" of the stem it remains protected in the
leaf sheaths surrounding it.  Seed head development, once  started (usually)
takes priority over the development of tillers and new leaves. 
Growth of tillers and leaves recommences when: The flower has been
removed, or the flowering is finished.
Actual flowering "dates" are different for each grass species.
Flowering dates are also influenced by growing conditions.

Stolons & Tillers:
 
A tiller is a  miniature of the parent plant.

When plant sugars are in an abundance, and new leaf development is accomplished
some grass species then develop rhizomes.
The formation of tillers is at it's most rapid during autumn, winter, and spring. It ceases when the plant flower is growing.
(The rhizome goes underground as per the sketch) Rizomes originate from an adventitious bud in the crown zone.
From the rhizome tillers are created.  A stolon remains above the ground. (Many soporiferous grasses are invasive & nuisance grasses)
Like rhizomes stolons originate from adventitious bud in the crown zone. Grazing, and the intensity of light encourage tillers formation.
In Autumn farmers may use stock to "clean up the pasture" (Particularly pastures which have not been hard grazed during the
year.) This involves encouraging stock to eat down, and to eat dead leaf material.. Doing this encourages new grass tillers.
Ryegrass can produce many tillers. Cocksfoot & timothy produce fewer tillers.

The lifespan of a tiller is influenced by conditions.  
 3 main stages in grass's development. 

   
1. The vegetative stage:
   During grass's leafy stage of growth, the plant usually consists of  a  number of tillers, each  with growing leaf blades,
  and leaf sheaths.  In this stage its growing zone  remains compact near the soil.
   These leafy plants have a large amount of digestible cell contents, and a high feed  value.
 Grazing management: Leaf area is needed for photosynthesis, so there needs to be leaf area left after grazing.

 
2. Elongation / transition stage > leading to the Reproductive Stage;      
 
This is influenced by the longer daylight hours and warmer temperatures.
During late spring a shoot within each tiller will rapidly elongate at the upper internodes, (ie in between the nodes)
The elongation becomes the stem (or culm.)

3.
Flowering stage/reproductive stage:
A flower emerges from within the top leaf sheath (the flag leaf). A seed head then develops.
Seed development and pollination follow.
The Lower internodes do not elongate and remain at the base of the plant. 
The lower nodes, internodes and dormant buds, together with related tillers, form the crown of the plant. 

*Stems contain lignin which can't be  digested by ruminants. Feed wise, during elongation
or reproductive stage the feed value is lower.
_____________________________________________________


The structure of  a Clover  Plant:

          white clover                                                                                        
Clovers are made up of a series of stems called stolons which grow along the top of the soil.
The clovers growing points are found at the end of a stolon.
Nodes:
The leaves, roots, and buds all develop from nodes.
Nodes and stolons:
Lie close to the ground, and are thus protected when animals graze.
After the clover leaf is eaten the stolon provides energy for new leaf growth.
Each stolon can produce more stolon branches resulting in a network of of stolons covering the ground.
The stolon is morel likely to branch if it can have light to it.
In winter the clover leaf size is generally smaller than in summer.
The stems are usually shorter in winter also.  


      Common Pasture Grasses:

                                       
 
Cocksfoot, (or Orchard grass):
grass in seedCocksfoot ( < photographed) Is a hardy & productive grass.                               
In New Zealand it is a popular choice for "summer dry" locations. It has an extensive root system which
is possibly why it can tolerate dryer conditions.
 It does not fare so well with very heavy grazing.  
It does not require such fertile soil for growth.
It can tolerate some shade.
When planted, it is a little slower to establish than other grasses species.
However once it is well established it is somewhat clumpy, and when sown in a "mixed grass species"
pasture, it's growth style means it can shadow other desirable pasture plants.
To maintain it's palatability farmers "top it"..(Reduce it's height by mowing the top of the pasture plants)
It doesn't cope so well on poorly drained soils, or salty soils.
It has rapid growth during warmer months, but growth slows or becomes dormant during the  cool months.
It (arguably) lacks some palatability. It is prone to grass grub.                                                     

-Brome Grasses:
Prairie Grass
(bromus willdenowii)
A palatable cool season grass with upright growth.  It is large leafed. It is short lived.
ME is adequate in all stages of its maturity. Animals find the the "flower head" to be palatable.
It offers good winter > early spring growth. It is reasonably drought tolerant.
It needs fertile soil, free draining soil and nitrogen for its growth.
The PH needs to be above 5.5  (It wont tolerate being water logged, nor it's soil being pugged.)
It is usually planted with a mix of grasses because of its low iodine and magnesium content.
It is not suited to a rotation which is less than 28 days. 

Grazing Brome; (Bromus stamineus)
Related to Prairie grass. It is a perennial. It will tolerate close grazing, but it needs frequent close grazing to perform well.
It produces quality winter and summer feed.  It wont tolerate wet heavy soils.

Pasture Brome: (Bromus valdivianus)
It is a perennial. It is more persistent than prairie grass under grazing.
Winter growth is only moderate, but spring summer growth is strong.
It ideally needs free draining soils, but it does tolerate higher rainfalls than other bromes. It is drought tolerant.

Upland Brome: (Bromus sitchensis)
I
t can provide nutritional feed in flat or rolling dryer upland areas who experience cold winters, and warm summers.
It is short lived. It is a perennial.

Smooth Brome: (bromus inermis)
This brome is spread by rhyzomes. It develops into thick persistent pasture tolerant to hard grazing.
Ideal for high country regions with cool winters & hot summers.
-Rye Grasses:                    
 
Perennial Ryegrass: (Lolium perenne L):
   New Zealand's most common grass.
   Ryegrass grows best with ground temperatures between 5 & 18 degrees centigrade.
   It is not suitable for very hot temperatures, nor very severe winters. 
   It establishes quickly after sowing (if conditions are right). I've heard it's seeds referred to as
  "throw and grow" seeds. This refers to "broadcasting" the seeds over bare soil. (broadcasting: see below)
  Perennial rye grass is highly digestible, and very palatable to animals.
  It has a rapid re-growth after grazing, even after heavy grazing!!
   There are many many ryegrass cultivars to select from if re grassing.

 
Italian Ryegrass (lilium multiflorum)
 
These are large leafed. They produce well for up to 3 years.
 It is often used in high fertility soils and provides good cooler temperature growth.

 Hybrid ryegrasses: (lolium perenne x L multiflorum)
These are bred from perennial and Italian rye grasses. 
They are most usually combined with other ryegrass in a seed mix.

Also: See ENDOPHYTE

 Tall Fescue. (festuca arundacea Schreb):
Requires a fairly fertile soil, even poorly drained soils!!.
Is tolerant of soils of all alkalinity/acidity.
This long rooted, cool season grass is also hardy, aggressive, nutritious, and drought tolerant.
Basically its an all purpose grass. 
Sometimes it is mixed with other grasses, but NOT ryegrass, as ryegrass dominates.
It needs to be managed to minimize seed head production (grazing & topping) and maintain quality pasture.
It is a choice when planting to control soil erosion.   
Endophyte is NOT present in certified tall fescue seeds sold in NZ. 
For "Older" and wild  tall fescue  see
ENDOPHYTE      

    "Less desirable" & "nuisance" grasses.
Yorkshire Fog (holcus Lanatus):
Arguably this hairy leafed grass has some nutritional merit, but unfortunately stock don't like the 'feel' of 'furry' leaves.
It is considered a nuisance grass.
Barley Grass: .(Hordeum leporinum)   Also called wild barley, wall barley, mouse barley.
 This is a common "nuisance" grass. 
It's spread: It catches in animal fur/hair/wool, and this enables its seed to be transferred.  It's sharp seeds have been
known to burrow into skin, eyes and the mouth of sheep.

Control: Graze closely when the plants are young. Mow prior to  seed head formation. These methods helps
limit it's seed formation.

Herbicides:  Glyphosate.   Try pouring boiling water over the plants. Cultivate
Browntop: (agostis tenuis)  It has low feed value.
     It is common especially in dryer districts, and on less fertile soils. 

Kikuyu grass (
Pennisetum clandestinum):
This tropical, drought tolerant grass enjoys moist, warm, frost free conditions, plus soils with some fertility.
It spreads by stolons and rhizomes. It will tolerate being waterlogged. It is winter dormant.

    
 Legumes:

Why legumes?
We need Legumes because they form a symbiotic association with the soil bacteria (rhizobia) to convert
atmospheric nitrogen to a plant available form. (Grasses depend on nitrogen.) Legumes are high in protein, and are
palatable, so they increase the digestibility of the pasture. *Some legumes cause bloat in ruminants.

Birdsfoot Trefoil:
This is a long lived leafy perennial. It reseeds itself, usually taking about 2 years to become fully
established. It grows in almost all soils. It is not winter hardy. Tall pasture species may shade it. (Birdsfoot Trefoil needs
to be inoculated with a specific rhyzobium if planted for the first time.) It is a non bloating legume.
Birdsfoot trefoil is not particularly common in NZ

Lucerne or Alpha alpha. (medicago sativa):
The oldest known cultivated forage crop. It is popular in crop rotations
As it's salt content is very low, stock need access to salt. It can cause bloat.
However it is very nutritious and tasty to stock. (see the table below re it's feed value)
Because of its ability to fix nitrogen, improve soil structure, and control weeds in subsequent crops.
Normally this is a very persistent plant, and can grow rapidly in ideal situations.
It dislikes acid, and poorly drained soils.
It is Not drought tolerant, and almost dormant in cold winters. 
Lucerne is often used as a hay, or silage crop. 

-The Clovers:

Clover has a a higher carbohydrate content than grass.
Their essential mineral content is higher (eg Magnesium) than grasses.
The clover leaf is tastier than grass leaf..
Clover grows best with soil temperatures between 8 degrees to 23 degrees centigrade.
  * * See also Bloat. * *
There are many clover cultivars available in New Zealand.
Red Clover: (trifolium pratense):
T
his is a tap rooted plant. It is not compatible with hard continuous grazing, but
is OK for rotational grazing. It has a high summer production. Older species of red clover have a high oestrogen content.
 Eating large amounts of this clover is not recommended for breeding stock. It persists for 2 to 7 years
Subterranean Clover: This is an annual clover regenerating from seed each autumn. Lax grazing is required over the
flowering season to help its seed production. It can produce well over winter or spring if the conditions are ideal.
White Clover (Trifolium repens):
White clover is a perennial legume.
White clover is a VERY important plant in farming.  
Experimentally dairy cows have produced well on clover alone.
 ** (See the chart below) **
It will not tolerate extremes of cold, heat, salty soils, or moisture deprivation. 
New plants need to have developed a strong root system prior to extremes in weather.
This plant spreads by creeping stolons. (see clover diagram) It may also spread by seedling from the flower.
It is always planted in combination with a grass species, thus improving the feed value for stock.
White clover can be grazed in rotation or continuously.
 Management of Clovers:
There can be competition between clovers and vigorously growing grass during grasses vegetative stage.
Grazing/clipping/topping helps prevent the clover from becoming shaded.
As with grass, grazing close to the ground in late autumn encourages white clover to produce more stolons.
The clover leaf is MORE palatable to cattle than a grass leaf, so stock will actually graze the clover in
preference to grasses. 
In pastures for dairying there is a suggestion that pastures could have more than a 40% clover content.. (see bloat)

       
 
Clovers are very important to pasture.
  Nutrition-wise they improve pasture feed quality.
  Experiments have proven that a clover can contribute to animal  weight gain, and milk production.
  The energy that clover provides is said to be more efficiently used.
 Nitrogen fixing ability:
The clover provides nitrogen for other  pasture plants to grow.
 Legumes differ from grasses because they produce their own nitrogen through a symbiotic relationship with
certain soil bacteria. (They convert atmospheric nitrogen to a plant available form)
The legumes, by producing more nitrogen than required means nearby grasses are supplied with nitrogen.
Most legumes have broad leaves. Clovers increase the palatability and digestibility of pastures.
_____________________________________________________________________________

            Animal Feed: The terms used.
Maintenance Requirement:
Is the amount of food required to keep the animal alive.
Voluntary Intake: Is the amount of food the animal chooses to eat.
It can  decrease (because of the enlargening uterus in pregnancy, or it can increase in pregnancy.
Ruminant digestion provides warmth for the animals' bodies.
So: In cold weather they'll  eat more, and less in very hot weather.
The brain (responding to the stimuli from other body organs especially its digestive system actually sets
the voluntary intake.
Dry Matter  (DM): The feed after evaporation. (No moisture or green matter present)
Gross Energy (GE): The total energy concentration in feeds.
In ruminants only a small amount of gross energy will become body tissue for growth, cell replacement, the foetus or milk.
Metabolisable Energy: (ME) The digestible energy eaten, minus energy lost in urine and methane.
(The measurement for energy in ruminants is a joule, this equals about 0.240 calories)

  DM & ME of common feeds (approx):
Note:
DM as a percentage.   ME = mega joule per KG of DM
Minerals listed as g/kg of DM
Pasture: Grass & clover DM M E Ca P Mg
Leafy  Spring  Pasture 14 11.8 6.0 4.5 1.5
Leafy  Summer  Pasture 20 10.0 8.5 4.0 2.0
Summer pasture (dry & stalky) 25 8.0 7.0 3.0 2.0
Cut Pasture DM ME Ca P Mg
Silage:  Best quality 23 10.0 7.0 4.3 1.7
Silage: Poor quality 28 8.0 5.5 2.8 1.4
Hay: Good quality. 85 9.7 8.0 4.0 2.0
Hay: Medium quality 85 8.5 6.0 3.5 1.9
Hay: Poor quality 85 7.3 4.0 3.0 1.8
Legumes: DM ME Ca P Mg
Red Clover (spring) 17 11.5 11.0 3.5 3.0
White Clover 15 12.2 12.0 4.0 3.0
Alphalpha / Lucerne: leafy 18 12.0 16.0 3.0 2.5
Alphalpha / Lucerne flowering: 23 10.0 13.0 2.8 2.0
  
   Pasture:

-Re-growth, &  Nutrition:

T
he amount of re-growth the plant has (providing growing conditions are ideal) is related to the amount of leaf area
remaining after eating, topping, or mowing.
If only a small amount of leaf is eaten by animals, then sufficient leaf remains for photosynthesis to proceed.
The plant replenishes the carbohydrates stores in the leaf, and root growth continues.
If grasses can be maintained in a leafy state, their palatability, and nutritive value is higher than grass in its
reproductive stalky flowering state.

Pasture Management:
"Off with it's head"  (Topping, clipping, mowing:)
tractor with mower, topping grass on dairy farm
 
Seed heads are not as nutritious as leafy pasture (see "summer dry" and "stalky pasture
  in the above table.)
 
Cattle know that leaf is tastier than stalks.
  When topping  the plan is to prevent the seed heads from emerging. So ideally pastures are
  first topped in early seed head development.
  Doing this can increase the number of shoots.  (You can learn a lot from your lawn.)  
The topper needs to be adjusted for each  paddock.
In answer to: Top before, or top after cattle have grazed out a paddock?
A group of dairy farmers compared  daily milk solids figures and times of topping.. They came to the conclusion that
it didn't matter if topping was done prior to, or after grazing.  It also meant that once the topper was on the tractor
it made sense to do several paddocks at once.

How animals eat:
Sheep:

Graze selectively and have a preference for short lush feed, rather than taller plants.
Young and older sheep have difficulty competing with greedy mature ewes.
Separating these groups is beneficial
to both.
Sheep use their lips and teeth when eating. The teeth on the lower jaw and a pad on the
upper jaw cut through the grass leaves.
This means they can eat closer to the ground. Sheep are selective grazers, usually choosing
the part of the plant which is more digestible.
Goat:
Similar to sheep. They also use their lower jaw against a strong pad on the upper lip. The upper lip is very flexible,
and with their strong tongues they can selectively grab, aiming at the more comfortable part of a thorny
or spiky plant. They enjoy roses, and your unprotected young trees, so beware.
They will also stretch up tree trunks with their fore
legs in order to reach those tasty leaves. They are very selective eaters.
Cattle:
Will graze the tastiest plants in pasture first. Their preference: Grasses rather than legumes, and ryegrass rather
than other grass species. Their intake is influenced by the amount of feed you allocate
them.
Cattle have amazing long and very flexible tongues. (tongues that can even flip open a
hook gate!!!) When eating they firmly twist their tongue around a selected plant and
with a tug, that portion of plant is ripped away.
Cattle seldom graze closer than 2 inches (5 cm) from the ground.
Their huge rumen allows cattle to gorge themselves for several hours at a time.
Later, when relaxed, they regurgitate, chew it finely, then re swallow it. (Chewing the
cud, or ruminating). It is said that if a dairy cow is sitting 3 hours after it has started
its fresh "break" (pasture) It is well fed.


Animal Urine and faeces: Urine patches in a paddock                                                      
Photo: Pasture; The darker green areas are "Urine patches".
 Urine and returns Potassium and Nitrogen to the soil.
Faeces returns Phosphate, Magnesium and Calcium.
'Camp sites:' Or where stock enjoy lazing, (in shade, or near water usually) benefit from dung and urine 'donations'
(at the expense of the rest of the paddock). There may be advantages in spreading these 'deposits', by harrowing,
raking, or breaking up these clumps with a weight (towed by a vehicle) allowing 'deposits' to break down more rapidly.

Avoid Overgrazing:
 
Overgrazing is:
When stock start eating down to the base of your grass plants.
*
With  little leaf left for photosynthesis, the plants growth slows.
The situation worsens if what little remains of the leaf is
continually removed. The plant tries to grow the leaves at the expense
off its roots. The plant weakens, and plant death may occur.
*
Overgrazing causes the soil to be exposed:
With soil exposed, weed seeds have a great opportunity to germinate.
*
Ground moisture vanishes by evaporation.
The soil, unprotected by foliage, looses more moisture.
The nearly bare soil is now exposed to the wind which will result
in more moisture loss, and in light soils and heavy wind the soil may
become airborne.
In a drought situation: Long rooted weeds may reach the seed stage.
Warmth, wind, and bare soil are ideal for the spread and
germination of weed seeds.

*Endophyte:*
The endophyte is a fungus that lives inside the grass plant.
Grass and endophyte have a symbiosis: Endophyte increased grass growth, and resistance to some insects,
(eg Argentine stem weevil) There are no visible signs that the plant has endophyte.
The endophyte produces toxins (or poisons) which can harm the livestock who have eaten great amounts of it.
Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass can be infected. These two grasses have very different endophytes from each other.
The toxins produced are very different also. E.g. In ryegrass the major toxin is lolitrem B
In tall fescue the major toxin is ergovaline.
In Ryegrass Staggers: (Signs and Symptoms:)
With Lolitrem B the animal's central nervous system is affected. A noticeably stiff, or difficult walk may be seen.
When severe, the animals may have difficulty standing.
In Tall Fescue Staggers: (Signs and Symptoms)
Ergovaline is a vasoconstrictor which causes heat stress in the animals by constricting the blood vessels.
Simply, the animal cannot cool itself.
 
Immediate Treatment:
Remove the animals from your high endophyte paddock. Symptoms disappear within 2-3 days usually.
Don't be concerned if they last much longer. Also these toxins have been known to:
Reduce feed intake in sheep and cattle. Reduce the growth in suckling lambs.
And increase the likelihood of fly strike in sheep.
Endophytes: and Farmer Management:
Concentrations of lolirem B are the lowest in fresh green leaves.
Toxin levels are highest during the reproductive stage of the grasses maturity.
Reduce the risk of staggers by pasture management: Top/or mow to prevent a large number of seed heads forming.
Use endophyte free ryegrass in new pastures. Or sow a combination of pasture species if re-grassing.
For more information:  http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/p239.pdf 

          GRAZING your STOCK

Rotational Grazing:

Above.. the diagram shows "rotational grazing".
The farm is divided into paddocks (eg numbered, in the diagram). Stock are on each paddock in the rotation
for a brief period..(3 days, 2 days, a day)
Rotation length (ie how long it takes the stock to rotate the farm) may depend on the type of stock, the
size of the farm, and importantly, the season of the year (which influences the speed of grass growth)  
Pasture needs time to re-grow and become leafy after stock have grazed it. 
Spring weather encourages rapid grass growth so: Either the rotation has fewer days, or paddocks are "shut up"
ie: reserved for silage or hay.
Winter time when pasture growth has slowed, the rotation length is extended by dividing paddocks into several sections
with an electric fence.
The aim is to have pasture leafy when stock return to the paddock.
If the rotation length is too long: The long grass leaves will shade out other pasture leaves. (leaves need sunlight for
photosynthesis)
If the rotation is too short, the pasture may be well chewed down, and growth rate will slow. (Next rotation there
may be even less pasture for stock.. So either;
-Slow the rotation.
-Have less stock on,
-Encourage grass growth by increasing the soils fertility, or by apply some nitrogen.
With rotational grazing, the pasture is eaten more evenly.
Paddocks are given a time to freshen results in greater dry matter production.


Set Stocking:

(
above.. a diagram showing "set stocked" cows...)
 
With set stocking there are only a few animals per paddock/field.
The animals are moved about occasionally.
Set stocking is used on some sheep farms when there is an abundance of feed.
With such low stocking rate it can waste a lot of grass.  As animals prefer to eat their
"favourite", or the most palatable pasture it results in uneven pasture quality.
In winter, particularly wet winters there will be less pasture pugging.
Animals will have "campsites" a shaded or sheltered spot.
Paddock soil fertility becomes uneven, because of urine and faeces deposited in these 'campsites" only.
If pasture is infected with parasites, set stocked animals are continually exposed to them.

Break fencing/Break feeding:


(above: The diagram shows a herd in a "break") Stock must have adequate water with each break.
Either a portable trough is used, or a laneway (using an electric fence) is made so stock can have access to the trough.
Above in the diagram:
The paddock has been partitioned into several equal sections by using an electric fence.
There is a fence separating both fresh pasture, and previously grazed pasture.
Back fencing is important, to allow eaten, trodden on, urinated, defecated and possibly a little pugged pasture to freshen,
and grow.
Above is an example of break fed NZ dairy cows during our cool poor grass growth winters..
With each portion of saved pasture they also get hay to eat.
If the herd is calving in very early spring
then magnesium powder is sprinkled over
the pasture. This is to supply animals
with the vital magnesium.. 
Magnesium is not plant available during this
slow plant growth period.


S
trip Grazing/Crop Grazing.

Is basically similar to break feeding.
The terms usually refers to animals who are given a small "break" in a paddock sewn in crop, or saved pasture
(as in deferred grazing.) The major difference between break feeding and strip/crop grazing
is these animals get to spend only a couple of hours on a break. They are then returned to their regular paddock.

 "Deferred grazing" allows the farmer to have feed available if anticipating a period of low pasture growth some
months ahead. (The "long term" weather report is a guide)

On/Off grazing:
(Cattle) Some farmers use a 'sacrifice paddock' for their stock during very wet weather.
A "sacrifice" paddock is usually the worst paddock on the farm.. A paddock whose pasture is for renewal come spring.
Hay may be fed out on this paddock. Cattle can chew the grass right down to the roots!!.  
Hoof damage (pugging) will be ploughed over and re-grassed the next season.
During very wet weather cattle may be taken to a fresh break of pasture to "strip/crop graze" it.
This minimizes pasture & soil damage in a valuable paddock, for after 3 hours on the fresh pasture they are then returned
to their sacrifice paddock.
In cattle this method creates quite a soil fertility transfer.. (They're eat elsewhere, but relieve themselves on the
sacrifice paddock. )
The sacrifice paddock can become quite mucky.. Avoid having cows in these conditions so close to calving.
It can predispose to mastitis.
If soil potassium levels (K) become too great. (Potassium is excreted in urine) it can predispose the calving cow to
metabolic problems.
 If cattle are resting after 3 hours of grazing, it is considered that they have eaten sufficient.



Improving the growth of your Pasture:
*Increase the fertility of your soil:
You can do a soil test, then increase the soil fertility as per the recommendations.
Better soil fertility will increase pasture growth. Better pasture growth will crowd out some weeds.
*Re-grassing:
For old pasture and pasture with less desirable species:
Renewing your pasture with vigorous growing new grasses will increase your production. It can be expensive.
You will have less paddocks in your rotation while awaiting your new pasture to becomes strong enough to cope with
animals eating it.
 If you decide to regrass:
Search "pasture seed mixes" on your countries own search engine. .. Your Local Pasture seeds supplier will have pamphlets
describing the benefits of choosing 'such 'n' such' seed.
There are many types of grass, and clover cultivars for you to choose from.
You then have to select from seed mixes, or seeds  which are compatible with your climate, and your type of farming.
**
CHOOSE CERTIFIED SEEDS.
*Drain damp soil:
Well drained paddocks have a faster re-growth. Heavy stock will pug damp areas.
*Aerate your soil: (see fertilisers and soil)
*Grass Grub: Do you have grass grub?   Do you have you patches of grass with dead leaves? 
Try this test:
Tug at a few blades of grass. If the top of the plant comes away in your hand, clearly some grub has been eating
away at its roots.  Non chemical methods include: rolling the paddocks with a very heavy roller. (Your contractor
may be able to help) and Mob stocking, Grouping your heavy cattle together in a small area. Their weights crush the grub.
There are chemicals available to rid your pastures of those grubs.

Pasture Renewal:

T
o replace your low producing grass species with high producing grass species, there is merit in killing off the old undesirable
pasture first. You can plough, then direct drill. (a method producing the best results)
Paddocks exposed to the winds:
Think carefully about ploughing first: Heavy winds, can easily uplift your topsoil.
.
Hill CountryIn fact I've seen the air go nearly black, as the top soil from a newly ploughed paddock is uplifted and distributed by the wind.

Spray, then direct drill:

This is a very popular 'no till' method. The herbicide Glycosphate
(it has several other names) is sprayed over the old pasture.
A penetrant can be added to the glycosphate to ensure stubborn weeds
are killed off. With pasture that has a history of
weeds, with this method it gives the least chance of disturbing
the weed seeds in the soil.
The old plant remnants form a shade for emerging new grass shoots on very hot days. Eventually the new shoots will tower
above the old decaying grass, and the latter mentioned will contribute to the soils fertility.
Broadcast bare spots in spring and autumn:
It is the least expensive way of regressing, but the results are seldom fantastic!!!.
However it is ideal for grassing a few 'bald' patches in the paddock.
(Rye grass seeds have been called "throw and grow" seeds.
The tendency is to be quite generous with the grass seed to make allowances for the poor "take" by
the seeds. Think carefully before broadcasting a large area, other methods may be more successful.
Over-sewing Existing Pasture: (No herbicides No ploughing)
Direct drill the new seeds (grasses, clover, or a mix of both) into ground.
1. Put your animals on the paddock prior to the new leaves emerging, to eat down existing plants so they wont shade new plants.
2. Encourage the emerging new plants growth with fertilizer, or an application of nitrogen (or both).
3.Do a 'pull test' to make sure the new plants are strong enough to cope, prior to letting your stock feed from the paddock.

Your New Grass:
 
Often farmers will apply fertiliser when the grass leaves
are just emerging, Often nitrogen is added to this fertiliser.
'Pull Test' for new plants:
If the roots stay put, and the leaves break away when you tug at
them, then its time to think about putting your stock on to graze.
Calves are best for the first rotation.
Ryegrass benefits from a short sharp defoliation, and this
encourages the plant to tiller. It also prevents the slower to
establish clovers from being smothered.
New grasses should be grazed when pastures are dry, and
your stock are not too hungry.
Don't feed out hay on new pasture:
Frequently older pastures are cut for hay. If hay is full of old
grass seeds, and perhaps some weeds.
By NOT feeding out hay on your new pasture you are protecting
the new grass from contamination by weed seeds, and
seeds from less desirable pasture.

Your pasture & challenging weather:
Drought:  

Your pasture is very very important. Beware of having your pastures eaten 'right down' because pastures, with little leaf
remaining, will struggle to grow, even after a good wetting, Slow your stock rotation right down. Instead of a
e.g. 30 day rotation divide your paddocks into 4 with an electric fence. Each time you give stock a new break, feed out
a portion of your stored supplements. (hay or baleage.) You may need to purchase more hay/baleage to see you through
the months ahead. (winter)
If feeding meal to normally pasture fed animals, remember, ruminants need time to build up digestive microflora.
Give them small amounts daily at first, then gradually increase the amounts you feed them.
When rain finally arrives:
You'll need a substantial amount of rain!! Keep stock on a 'sacrifice paddock' if you can. Or give stock small breaks and
feed out supplements. (Stock may loose some condition.)
Your pasture requires plenty of time to build up. Urea will help with grass growth here. The new shoots grow first but at the
expense of the roots. When you have masses of strong rapidly growing grass, the stock can make up for any loss of condition.
Weeks of cool wet weather:
Cool ground temperatures will slow your grass growth. Sunlight is needed for grass growth, and for drying up your soils.
Heavy cattle hooves can pug up your soils. Use a sacrifice paddock, and supplements, fed out on the sacrifice paddock.
Give stock a 3 hour break in a paddock of reserved grass, until the paddocks are much drier.
   
    ____________________________________________________________

                    Weeds:
Avoid weed invasion by having a high pasture plant population, and rapidly growing pasture. (by good soil fertility)
Avoid any soil, and pasture damage.
Herbicides:
These are usually kept under lock and key at your farm supplies retailers.
Pamphlets are available to describe their uses, doses, precautions, and when to use.
Take care with the poisons at home. They should be locked up at your property also.

http://www.ermanz.govt.nz/hs/pesticides/pah.pdf
http://www.ermanz.govt.nz/hs/pesticides/pahtr.pdf
*When using herbicides:  
Work in with the "kill speed" of the herbicide, and the rotation of your stock.
The kill speed is also influenced by the growing conditions. When conditions are ideal for plant growth, the
"kill speed" will be  quicker than when plant growing conditions are slow.
Some herbicides work quickly, others slowly.
With "fast kill" herbicides  you'll notice the weeds have wilted the day following their spray. 
With these herbicides, follow behind your stock. The wilted weeds can be more palatable to your stock.
Other herbicides (Escort is one) take a lot longer to show as dying. 

'Weed wiping or wetting':
This method is popular with taller weeds. It uses an applicator soaked in the herbicide.
Escort is a herbicide frequently used for weed wiping.  This herbicide "kills" with only a "dab" of solution on the plant.
Weed wiping is done after the stock have thoroughly eaten " down" the pasture in the paddock.
This leaves the the weeds standing tall amongst the "eaten down" pasture.
The "wiper" applicator machine is dragged over, and touches the tall weeds, without damaging the pasture.
It's a popular choice for killing:  Californian thistles and ragwort.  Some have used it for giant buttercup.

Spot Spraying:
I
deal for a few weeds: You'll need a back pack or similar, protective clothing, and a fine day without any wind.
Read the instructions on the pack.
There are advantages in spraying before the weed grows too large.
Spray as carefully as you can because: Some weeds need to be fully covered with the spray. Many spays will damage,
or kill your clover. And some sprays can contaminate the ground for several months after spraying.
There may be advantages of adding a dye to the herbicide to identify which weeds you have sprayed.
Prills: Here you damage the plant first, then pour a few prills on the raw area of the plant. In a handy container you
can take the prills around the farm with you "prilling" whenever you notice a weed. Prills are ideal for Scotch thistles.
Boiling water poured over weeds:
                Some Common Weeds:
-The Thistles:
Californian Thistles:

"Calli's" have a great underground "creeping" network of roots: This explains why they grow in clusters. 
The plants vanish over winter, but their healthy roots system sends a new lot of weeds up next spring.
Their prickles make it uncomfortable for close grazing by stock. 
"Killing Calli's":
Constant mowing, or topping to stop foliage developing is a method often used by dairy farmers.
Boom spraying with the correct herbicide during the growing stage.
Using a weed wiper or similar.
http://www.c-dax.com/efx/include/common/category.asp?country=NZ&CatID=21
This photo illustrates a C-dax weed wiper.. Pasture is grazed down prior to using the weed wiping.
The applicator is soaked, or loaded with a herbicide. It is "dragged" over the tall weeds.
Nodding thistles:
Spot spraying works well. Biological Control insects are working well in some parts of the country:
Scotch Thistle:
The scotch thistle has been credited with helping the Scots fend off invasion by the Vikings.
The invading Vikings reportedly met up with  scotch thistles, and their cries of pain alerted the Scots..
who sent the Vikings packing!! 
Windblown scotch thistle seeds are a very familiar site. 
Methods of eradication include: Goats will eat scotch thistle.
Digging out.. It may mean digging into the ground, but make sure all the leaves have gone. Do this prior to the plant
going to flower to reduce the likelihood of seeds spreading. 
Spraying: most well known herbicides are effectively control scotch thistle.

 
Weeds with YELLOW flowers!!
Ragwort:
senecio jacobaea
This weed is poisonous to animals.. Clinical signs may only show after an animal been eating it for a long period
ragwortof time.   Cattle don't like it's taste.
Methods of killing ragwort include:
Boom spraying with a clover friendly herbicide in early spring.
Spot spraying & weed wiping, are also effective ways.
Pull the ragwort when it has reached the flowering stage.. This does make the ragwort disappear
quickly (especially if your fit!!) The plants, after frying out a bit, are then burnt.

BUT: Be aware:
1. You may leave some root in the ground, and the plant can grow from there.
 Disturbed ragwort can rapidly become a "multi-crown" plant. 
2. These flowers can go to seed if left too long before burning. 
Biological control:
Phone your regional council for help if ragwort is a BIG problem. The Flea Beetles has been used
for a number of years, and with good results. 

Giant Buttercup:
This weed is very tolerant of moist conditions. It's a big problem in some areas, where there are paddocks of yellow!!
(Selling buttercup flower contaminated hay is blamed for it's spread.)
Controlling buttercup is a challenge. There are herbicides on the market which are effective, but pastures may need
several treatments. Furthermore some buttercups have become resistant to some herbicides. 

**If it has spiky leaves, and the the plant sits well above the
ground then it's giant buttercup. If it is a flatter plant, then it's creeping buttercup.
Creeping buttercup: Ranunculaceae repens
This weed has a solon system allowing it to spread quickly. It tolerates mowing.
Choose a herbicide that is gentle on clovers.

Broom:
This scrub weeds is actually a legume.
The Dandelion family.

Dandelion:(Taraxacum officinale)
The yellow flower with a hollow stem that leaks a white fluid when cut; and the very familiar seed that floats in the breeze.
It's said to be a very common, (and found all over the world) I looked for dandelion to take a photo, and couldn't find one. 
It does look unsightly in green pasture. It persists after topping, and lawn mowing!! 
Most herbicides that are lethal to dandelions are also very damaging to clovers.
Catsear.
Hawkbit: (Leontondon taraxacoides)
Is often seen growing in low fertility pastures. It has a deep tap root and therefore continues to grow, and seed during
drought conditions.  Animals will eat it.
By increasing the fertility of your soil you will encourage the growth of pasture.
Consider re-grassing. Spray the area with glyphosate prior to ploughing, or direct drilling.
 Hawkesbeard


 -Weeds with daisy like flowers.
Daisy
Oxeye daisy.
(Luecanthemum vulgare) 
This weed is much larger, and taller than the common daisy.  Cattle wont eat it, but sheep will.
 There is so much stalk this plant, rather than leaves.. that  spraying without damaging the
clover is nearly an impossibility. (even with spot spraying) Plants may need to be re-sprayed.
 With a cluster growing under the fenceline, I resorted to  adding a  penetrant, and gently spot spraying.
I  successfully killed the daisy.  I'm sure some clover would have been coated also. The additive was not cheap.
Weed wiping with escort is another option.


Stinking mayweed.
(Anthemis cotula)
Stinking mayweed has a strong smell when crushed.  It looks very like scentless chamomile. 
It can emerge where there has been pasture damage.
Animals wont eat it, so being an annual it will persists until it dies. 
Improving the density of pasture will minimize contamination.
If necessary most common sprays will effectively kill stinking mayweed.

-Other common weeds.
Dock:
  Rumex conglomeratus
These are several dock species growing in New Zealand.           
Their spread: The stock eat the plant, and the dock seeds pass though the animal. The dock seeds arrive on
the ground  complete with its own mound of fertiliser!!!. This explains the  high population of dock plants
along the paths cattle take.
Dock do need to be destroyed prior to them going to seed.
There are herbicides on the market especially for dock.  They can be spot sprayed with
common sprays.

Nettle: (aka stinging nettle)
Urtica urens
Hemlock

Making: Hay & Silage
Small bales are easy to lug around, and to split up and feed out from the back of a 4 wheeler.
The large 'squares' may be segmented for feeding out also.
To feed out the 'big rounds' a bike towed, or tractor 'feed out' make the task simpler.
Hay:
Ideally hay should be leafy, a bright green, and have a pleasant smell.
This describes hay has been dried rapidly,
It also has a high feed value.
Hay that has caught the rain shortly after cutting may
have minimal damage, unlike hay that has delayed drying.(no wind) and has been exposed
to humidity, or rain. With an extended period for drying hay can become
discoloured, and have a lower feed value.  Don't sell off hay containing weed flowers.
Damp hay can become mouldy.  Moldy hay can cause abortions in pregnant cattle.
  
A very helpful site with pictures of haymaking:
http://www.ukagriculture.com/crops/hay_making.cfm 
Silage, Baleage   (briefly):

This is cut when the grass is leafy, and highly digestible.
If it can be cut on a sunny morning following several sunny days then the sugar levels will be good.
If several sunny days cant be
 organised!! then cut after 4 hours of sunlight.  Avoid wilting for too long in order to maintain a good sugar content.
Seal as soon as possible after baling or stacking to keep out the oxygen. (This rapidly provides ideal conditions for the
bacteria to convert the sugars into lactic acid, thus preventing protein losses in the feed)
There are additives available if making silage from less than ideal pasture. (e.g. acids, bacterial inoculants, and sugars
(e.g. molasses) to increase the amount of sugar for conversion into lactic acid.
When feeding out:
Exposing the silage, baleage to the air can cause it to break down. After feeding out a portion of the stack or bale,
the remainder needs to be sealed.
Don't let stock near old, or ruined silage, baleage.

Deferred Grazing:
This is a 'no machinery' way of saving surplus pasture. You simply shut the paddock up. (Keep the paddock out of
the rotation).. The aim: to feed the saved growth later on when there is a possibility of a feed deficit. When fed out it is as
a feed supplement. (a portion fed out daily in addition to the stocks normal rotation)
The Advantages:
Low cost. (No machinery used)
This method can allow pasture to reseed, providing pastures are shut up during the grass's reproductive stage and fed out only
when the seed is mature. (When it sheds easily from the seed head) Pastures do very well the following season if this
method is used.
Stock familiar with lush pasture may balk at this stalky pasture on 'offer' initially. Pasture and stock health are not
disadvantaged by deferred grazing.

Glossary:
Anaerobic: without oxygen.
Annuals: Annuals complete their growth cycle in a single growth season.

Auricle:
The turned portion of the leaf blade where it leaves the leaf sheath at the collar.
Biennials:
Take two growing seasons to complete their life cycle. There are no true biennial grasses.

Bunchgrass:
Grass that propagates by seed and basal tillering only (no rhizomes), forms clumps, not sod.
Collar:
The point where the leaf separates from the stem.
Cool Season Grass:
Grass species with rapid growth during the cool, moist period of the year. (is usually dormant during hot weather.)
Crown: The base just above the ground part of the grass plant. (at junction of roots and shoots.)
Culm: another name for the stem in grasses.
Cultivar: Lines of a particular plant species that have been bred, or selected for particular traits.
Ecosystem (Ecology): The system of relationships between animals and plants
Fungus:(dictionary)A plant without leaves, flowers or roots, that reproduces by spores.(incl moulds, yeasts, and mushrooms.
Hydrophonic: Plants grown in an aerated liquid that supplies all the nutrients needed for growth.
Indigenous: Organisms that are native to a specific environment.

Inflorescence:
The flowering portion of the grass.  Also called a seed head. 
Inoculants: Inoculate: To introduce helpful or necessary bacteria. Eg bacteria: for the soil, or seeds eg rhizobia.

Internode:
The area of the stem between two joints or nodes.
Leaf blade:
The portion of the grass blade that separates from the stem at an angle, above the collar.
Leaf sheath:
Portion of the grass blade that begins at the node and that wraps around the stem below the collar.
Ligule:
The outgrowth of the upper and inner side of the grass leaf where it joins the leaf sheath. It supports the leaf as it grows.
Micronutrients: Elements needed for plant growth but are required in small amounts.
Nitrogen: A colourless odourless gas. Essential for plants and animals. = 4/5 of the air.
Nitrogen Cycle: (dictionary)A natural cycle by which nitrates in the soil derived from dead organic matter, are absorbed by
plants and reduced to nitrates again when the plants and animals feeding on them die and decay.
Nitrogen Fixation: Clover has a symbiotic relationship with a rhizobia bacteria. These bacteria fix the atmospheric nitrogen then
release it to the clover plant. Grass also takes advantage of plant available nitrogen.

Node:
The joints of the grass stem, supporting a new leaf , punctuated by knobby swelling.

Paddock: In New Zealand: An area of land divided by a fence..  Used for grazing animals.
Perennial: a plant that continues to grow for at least three years.
Persist: Describes a hardy plant with uninterrupted growth.
Photosynthesis: A process in which plants convert the suns energy into the organic components they need for growth.

Petiole:
Leaf stalk that attaches legume leaf blade to the stem.
Rhizobia (rhizobium):
It is a bacteria that lives in soil. It infects the roots of legumes and produces root nodules (nodulation)
The rhyzobium have a symbiotic relationship with legumes.

Rhizome:
Underground stem, usually horizontal and capable of producing new shoots and roots at the nodes.
Sod:
Top few centimeters of soil held together with plant roots. (a clump)
'
Shutting up' 'Shut up': Done to keep pasture/a paddock out of the rotation in order to grow the grass for hay, silage, or defer
the grazing.

Stolon:
Trailing or lateral stem forming at or below the soil surface. Can send up new shoots at the nodes.
Symbiosis: A relationship between two organisms where each of them benefit.

Tillering:
To put out new plant shoots from the root.
Topping:
Mowing off the seed head and stalks in pasture, thus the pasture becomes lush palatable, and has a higher feed value.
Toxin: a poisonous substance.

Warm Season Grass:
Grass species that grows most rapidly during the warmer part of the year.